A dripping tap is one of those small problems that can quickly become a big irritation. It can also waste more water than most people expect, and it often gets worse over time. The good news is that many tap leaks are straightforward to fix if you take the right approach and don’t rush.
This guide walks you through a practical, step by step dripping tap fix, including how to identify what type of tap you have, what parts usually fail, and when it’s smarter to call a plumber.
Quick Safety and Prep Checks
1. Turn off the water
Most sinks have isolation valves on the hot and cold supply pipes underneath. Turn them clockwise to shut off the water. If you don’t have isolation valves, turn off the stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink, hallway cupboard, or near the front of the property).
2. Drain pressure and protect the area
Turn the tap on to release any remaining water. Then plug the sink so small screws don’t disappear down the waste.
3. Gather your tools
You usually need:
- Flathead screwdriver and Phillips screwdriver
- Adjustable spanner
- Allen key set (some handles use a grub screw)
- Pliers (optional)
- Cloth or tape to protect chrome finishes
- Replacement parts (more on this below)
4. Take a photo as you go
A quick photo at each stage makes reassembly much easier.
Step 1. Identify Where the Leak is Coming From
Before you reach for tools, take a minute to work out exactly where the water is escaping. A drip from the spout usually points to a worn internal seal, while water around the handle or base suggests a different part has failed. Getting this right first saves time and stops you replacing the wrong component.
Dripping From the Spout (Most Common)
Usually caused by a worn internal sealing part.
- Compression taps. Worn washer or valve seat issues
- Ceramic disc or cartridge taps. Worn cartridge or ceramic discs
Leaking Around the Handle
Usually an O ring or gland packing issue. Often fixed by replacing an O ring or tightening a packing nut.
Leaking from the Base of the Tap
Often an O ring, a loose fixing, or a degraded seal under the tap. If you’re not sure, dry everything off, then watch closely with the tap on and off. The leak pattern will guide you to the right repair.
Step 2. Work Out What Type of Tap You Have
Not all taps are built the same, and the fix depends on the mechanism inside. Some taps use a simple rubber washer, while modern quarter turn and mixer taps usually rely on a cartridge. Once you know what type you’re dealing with, the repair becomes much more straightforward.
Compression Taps (Often Two Separate Hot and Cold Taps)
They usually take multiple turns to fully open and close. These commonly drip due to a worn rubber washer.
Ceramic Disc taps (Often Quarter Turn)
They typically open with a short turn. These do not use a simple washer in the same way. They usually need a ceramic cartridge replacement.
Single Lever Mixer Taps (One Handle Controls Hot and Cold)
Most modern mixers use a cartridge. A drip after shut off commonly means the cartridge is worn. Competitor guides split these into separate articles. This guide keeps it all in one place, so you can diagnose first, then repair with confidence.
Step 3. Remove The Tap Handle
This is the access point to everything underneath, so go slowly and keep parts organised. Most handles come off with a small screw hidden under a cap, or a grub screw on the side or underside. A careful removal here helps you avoid scratched chrome, rounded screws, or a handle that never quite sits right again.
- Look for a small cap on the handle (often marked hot or cold). Pop it off gently with a flathead screwdriver.
- Unscrew the retaining screw underneath. Some use an Allen key grub screw instead.
- Lift the handle off. If it’s stiff, wiggle gently rather than forcing it.
Tip: If parts are stuck due to limescale, use a cloth and controlled pressure. Avoid gouging the chrome.
Step 4A. Dripping Tap Fix for Compression Taps (Replace the Washer)
If your tap takes a few turns to open and close, a worn washer is the most common cause of a steady drip. Replacing it is usually quick and inexpensive, as long as you match the size properly. This step also helps you spot valve seat damage, which is the usual reason a tap still drips after a new washer.
- Remove the cover and headgear nut
Under the handle you’ll see a cover and then a nut holding the headgear in place. Use an adjustable spanner and protect the finish with a cloth. - Lift out the headgear assembly
This is the internal valve section. - Replace the washer
At the bottom is a rubber washer held by a small screw or retaining nut. Remove it and replace with a matching size. - Check the valve seat
If the washer looks fine but the tap still drips, the valve seat inside the tap body may be pitted or worn. That can require reseating or replacing the tap. This is often where DIY stops being cost effective. - Reassemble and test
Refit everything in reverse order. Turn water back on slowly and test.
This approach is similar to the most structured competitor guides, but the key difference is the seat check. That is what usually explains “I replaced the washer and it still drips”.
Step 4B. Dripping Tap Fix for Ceramic Disc Taps (Replace the Ceramic Cartridge)
Quarter turn taps often drip when the ceramic cartridge inside starts to wear or gets clogged with limescale. Unlike compression taps, swapping a washer will not solve this. The key is removing the cartridge safely and replacing it with the correct match for your tap.
- Remove the handle as above.
- Unscrew the retaining nut or clip holding the ceramic cartridge.
- Pull the cartridge out and match it carefully. Diameter, height, spline count, and base shape all matter.
- Insert the new cartridge and reassemble.
Important Note: Don’t overtighten the handle to “force it to stop dripping”. Competitors are right to warn this can make wear worse on ceramic components.
Step 4C. Dripping Tap Fix for Single Lever Mixer Taps (Replace the Mixer Cartridge)
With single lever mixers, the cartridge controls both temperature and flow, so when it wears out you can get dripping, stiffness, or inconsistent mixing. Replacing the cartridge is usually the most reliable fix, provided you identify the right part. Taking a clear photo and noting measurements can make this step much easier.
- Remove the handle. Often there’s a grub screw at the back or underside.
- Lift off the decorative shroud to access the cartridge retaining nut.
- Remove the nut, then pull the cartridge straight out.
- Replace with the correct cartridge. If you can’t identify it, take the old one to a plumbing merchant, or take clear photos.
Tip. Many “mixer tap dripping from the spout” issues are solved by a cartridge swap, as competitor content also highlights.
Step 5. Fix Leaks Around the Handle
With single lever mixers, the cartridge controls both temperature and flow, so when it wears out you can get dripping, stiffness, or inconsistent mixing. Replacing the cartridge is usually the most reliable fix, provided you identify the right part. Taking a clear photo and noting measurements can make this step much easier.
- Try gently tightening the packing nut if your tap has one.
- Replace the O ring if it looks flattened, cracked, or stretched.
Reassemble, then test with the tap on and off.
Step 6. Turn the Water Back On and Test Properly
The job is not finished until you test it properly. A tap can seem fine at first, then start dripping again once pressure stabilises and everything settles. A slow, careful test helps you confirm the repair, catch minor leaks early, and avoid repeat dismantling later.
- Open the isolation valves slowly.
- Run the tap for 30 to 60 seconds.
- Turn it off and watch for drips for at least one minute.
- Check under the sink for any weeping at the valves or connections you touched.
If it still drips, don’t keep disassembling repeatedly. At that point it’s usually either:
- The wrong part size. Common with washers and cartridges.
- A damaged valve seat. More common on older compression taps.
- A cracked tap body or worn internal housing.
Common Causes of a Dripping Tap
- Worn washer in compression taps
- Worn cartridge or ceramic discs in modern taps
- Limescale buildup causing poor sealing
- Loose components after years of vibration and use
- Damaged valve seat in older taps
When to Stop DIY and Call a Plumber
Call a professional if:
- You cannot fully isolate the water.
- The retaining nuts are seized and you risk snapping pipework.
- The tap body is cracked, or leaks from multiple points.
- You replaced the washer or cartridge and it still drips. Valve seat damage is a common culprit.
- You’re in a flat and concerned about leaks impacting neighbours.
A good plumber will explain what has failed and what it will cost before work starts. All of our plumbers are fully qualified, fully insured, and experienced in diagnosing tap leaks properly. We’ll treat your home with respect, work efficiently, and make sure everything is left clean and tidy.
Need a hand in South London?
If your dripping tap fix has turned into a bigger plumbing issue, or you’d rather have it sorted quickly and cleanly, a local plumber can usually resolve it in one visit with the right parts and tools. Aren’s brand promise is friendly, reliable service and transparent pricing.
Still got a drip after your repair, a seized fitting, or you can’t isolate the water safely? Call us on 0203 807 5822 or get in touch via our Contact Us page. We’re here to help, day or night.
FAQs on Dripping Tap Repair
Is a dripping tap an emergency?
Usually no. But if you cannot stop it, or it’s leaking under the sink, treat it as urgent.
Can I just tighten the tap harder?
Sometimes a loose handle or packing nut is part of the issue. But overtightening ceramic taps can accelerate wear.
What if I can’t find a matching washer or cartridge?
Remove the old part and take it to a plumbing supplier. For cartridges, photos plus measurements help.
